| SAE: | Grow herbs |
| Description: | |
| Growing Herbs for your
SAE can be fun, tasty, healthy, and profitable!
Most herbs are easy to grow. Many are drought-tolerant, do not need very fertile soil and are naturally resistant to insects and diseases. The word herb has many definitions, but practically speaking, herbs are plants that are grown for their medicinal, aromatic and/or seasoning uses. Most herbs are herbaceous annuals or perennials. Some, such as lavender and rosemary, are small shrubs. Herbs can be used in a number of ways in the ornamental garden. Herbs are often planted in theme gardens such as scent gardens, tea gardens, kitchen gardens and apothecary gardens. Many herbs can also be incorporated into the regular flower or mixed border. With delightful scents, attractive shapes and textures, and countless shades of green and gray, herbs can be used to make a garden that appeals to all the senses.
Getting Started Herbs are adapted to an area with lots of sun, well-drained, stony soil and dry summers. In Georgia, they can have difficulty in heavy soils and the ever-present humidity. It is helpful to create raised beds for these plants to improve soil drainage, select cultivars that are tolerant of our climate and use a mulch of stone or gravel to help prevent rots. Almost all herbs grow best in an area that is sunny for at least six hours each day. The fragrance oils, which account for herb flavors, are produced in the greatest quantity when plants receive plenty of sun. A few herbs-including angelica, parsley and mint-prefer partial shade or shade. Soil for growing herbs should be well-drained. The soil should have a pH of 6 to 7 and contain a moderate amount of organic matter. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, poultry grit or coarse compost worked in to 8 to 12 inches deep to improve the drainage in clay soils. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, compost or leaf mold to sandy soils to improve their moisture retention. Build raised beds to further improve drainage. Very few herbs will grow in wet soils, although a few such as mints and lemon-grass thrive in moist soil. It is best to base fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a soil test. Most herbs do not need a highly fertile soil. Very fertile soils tend to produce lush leaves that lack flavor. Annual herbs are primarily grown from seeds. Several such as basil, coriander (cilantro) and dill may be directly sown. Seeds of some cold-hardy herbs such as parsley may be sown in the fall. Tender annuals such as basil are sown after all danger of frost is past in the spring. Most perennial herbs are transplanted from small pots. Plant perennial herbs in the fall if possible so that the plants have time to get well established before summer. Perennials can also be planted in early spring. Pinch out the tips of new plants to force them to branch and become full. Plant aggressively spreading herbs such as the mints in a separate area or confine their roots to a depth of 10 to 12 inches to prevent them from taking over the garden. Although many herbs are drought-tolerant, moisture is needed to maintain active growth. Water herbs thoroughly and then allow the soil to dry out somewhat before watering again. Plants should be watered early enough in the day that leaves can dry before nightfall. Some herbs, particularly most annual herbs, need additional soil moisture for best growth. Mulch with organic materials such as compost or composted bark to maintain even soil temperatures, discourage weeds, and retain soil moisture. Herbs with gray leaves, or that that are sensitive to excessive moisture and humidity, can benefit from a 1- to 2- inch mulch of pea gravel or other stones.
Indoors Some herbs may be grown in containers and brought inside in winter to provide fresh herbs all year. Bush basil, sage, winter savory, parsley, chives and varieties of oregano and thyme are some of the best herbs for growing in containers. Herbs grown inside will need plenty of sunlight from a south or west window. Even with a bright sunroom, sun-loving herbs will need 12 to 16 hours a day of supplemental light. You have two choices: fluorescent or high-intensity discharge (HID).
Maintenance Prune herbs regularly to promote vigorous, well shaped, sturdy growth. If you harvest herbs regularly, this should keep your plants pruned. Pruning naturally stimulates plants to grow. Pruning herbs can be as simple as pinching back growing tips to encourage branching; removing, or deadheading, spent flowers; or harvesting a major portion of plant growth for drying and preserving. Pinching back herbs throughout the growing season is the best way to maintain healthy, vigorous, and attractive plants. Prune branches just above a leaf node or above another branch where you want to force new growth to occur. It is important to deadhead herbs in order to keep plants growing and to encourage more flowering.
Harvesting HerbsThe best time to harvest herbs is when you are ready to use them. Using clipped sprigs from plants throughout the growing season is the easiest way to maintain herbs, so harvest just as much as you need each time. If harvesting large amounts of herb plants, follow these guidelines.-Keep in mind an herb's growth habit when determining when and how much of the plant to prune back. With some annuals, for example, the entire plant is often harvested to the ground at the end of the growing season. Examples of such annuals include dill, coriander (for seeds), cilantro (for leaves), and basils. Biennial herbs, including parsley, angelica, and caraway, produce leaves during the first year and flowers and seeds the second year. Perennials can have as much as half of their foliage pruned back at one time, except during extreme heat or drought when the plant is under stress. -Do not prune herbs in the fall when the plants are preparing to go into dormancy, nor during the winter. Pruning at these times will stimulate plant growth that could result in damage from freezing weather. -Harvest herbs in the morning hours after the dew has dried but before the heat of the sun wilts the plant. Volatile plant oils are at their peak in the cooler morning hours.
Good Starter Herbs
Marketing It is very important to plan a marketing strategy carefully before committing to a production venture. Direct marketing of the fresh or dried product, producing a value-added product, or using the wholesale system set up for fresh produce are all possibilities. Local grocery stores may be interested in buying this specialty product directly. Farmers Market & Natural foods stores are another potential market.
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| Factors To Consider |
Ranking: 1 = lowest 10 = highest |
| Time required |
5 |
| Investment | 4 |
| Equipment needed | 2 |
| Skills required | 3 |
| Facilities required | 2 |
| Land required | 4 |
| Labor Intensity | 4 |
| Potential for income | 4 |
| Transportation required | 1 |
| Expansion possibilities | 7 |
| Expertise needed | 4 |
| Advertising needed | 1 |
| Susceptible to disease | 5 |
| Susceptible to insects | 5 |
| Suitable for residential areas | 10 |
| Other (specify) | |
| Length of production cycle | Year Round |
| Regional | Statewide |
| When to start project | Anytime |
| Notes: |
Planting HerbsDirect SeedingSome herbs benefit from being directly seeded into prepared garden soil. Members of the Umbelliferae family (dill, cilantro/coriander, chervil, parsley, fennel, and anise) readily reseed themselves each year. Most perennial herbs that are direct-seeded grow slowly at first. In Alabama, perennials grow best when planted in the garden as transplants during the fall. This allows the plants to establish roots before putting on vegetative growth the next year. When direct-seeding, sow seeds in garden furrows in late March to early April or after the chance of frost has passed. Cover the seeds lightly with a shallow sprinkling of soil, or, as a rule of thumb, cover them no deeper than twice the depth of the seed diameter. Firmly tamp the soil for good seed-to-soil contact, and water, using a fine mist or spray to avoid washing the seeds away. As the seedlings germinate and develop their true seed leaves, thin the plants to approximately 1 to 2 inches to avoid spindly plants that crowd one another. TransplantingYou may want to start seeds that are expensive or have a long germination period in a greenhouse or a controlled environment indoors. Plant the seeds in February or in mid to late winter. Start the herbs in small containers such as peat pots, jiffy peat pellets, cell packs, or other containers designed for growing out transplants. You can also use styrofoam or cardboard cups or containers, but be sure to punch holes in the bottoms for drainage if you do. Start by selecting a sterile, soilless growing medium of peat mixed with perlite or vermiculite. Make sure it is well drained to reduce the chances of seedling disease problems yet is able to hold needed moisture. Make sure the seeds and seedlings get adequate light, either artificial or window light (but not full sun), and a controlled temperature between 60 and 70 degrees F. Label the plants with their name and the planting date. Water the containers, and allow them to drain completely. After the chance of frost has passed but before setting the plants out, harden off the young transplants by reducing the amounts of water and fertilizer. Move the transplants outside to a shaded area, and each day, gradually expose them to a little more sunlight, wind, and outdoor conditions. When the plants seem strong and healthy enough, transplant them to prepared beds or a garden. Tamp the soil and water the plants, and then make sure the plants are not deeper than they were in their original containers. Other Methods of Propagating HerbsIf plant parts are obtained during the right season, they will respond well to and can be produced faster through vegetative methods of propagation including dividing, taking stem and root cuttings, and layering. Buying Herb PlantsIf you don't want to propagate your own herb plants, you can, of course, buy them. And even the most inexperienced gardener can learn how to select healthy herb plants. Remember, the best plant is not always the largest one. Follow these tips when selecting an herb plant.-Select a good, sturdy plant that is not in the seedling stage but that is well developed for the size container it is growing in. -Take the plant out of its container and inspect its roots. The roots should be white and should fill the container but should not be root bound. Root-bound plants have a difficult time recovering from being stunted. -Check the leaves for any insects or disease problems.
ProblemsThe fragrance oils in many herbs repel most insects. However, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids are common in crowded conditions with rapidly growing, succulent plants. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions and can be discouraged by spraying the plants with a strong stream of plain water regularly during periods of drought. The best defenses against pests on herbs are proper growing conditions, good sanitation, removal of weak or infested growth, and regular pruning.
Harvest and StorageHerbs should be harvested when the fragrance oils are at their peak. Harvest early in the morning, after the dew dries, but before the heat of the day. Herbs grown for their foliage should be harvested before they flower. Harvest herbs grown for seeds as the seed pods change in color from green to brown to gray but before they shatter. Collect herb flowers just before full flower. Harvest herb roots in the fall after the foliage fades. Freezing is an excellent method to preserve the flavor of certain herbs such as basil that lose flavor when dried. Rinse herbs, then chop coarsely and place in water-filled ice cube trays and freeze.
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| Sources of Additional Information: |
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Books: Your Backyard Herb Garden: A Gardener's Guide to Growing over 50 Herbs plus How to Use themin Cooking, Crafts, Companion Planting and More -- by Miranda Smith; Paperback Burpee: The Complete Vegetable & Herb Gardener: A Guide to Growing Your Garden Organically -- by Karan Davis Cutler Websites: Alphabetical Directory of HerbsUniversity of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service
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